The Inside Intel on Model Agency Testing
First of all, we want to give a great big welcome to photographer Steve Ellinger! Steve has joined our Breed Team and we are so happy to have him on board with us! You can check out Steve’s website and follow him on his social media, it is all posted at the bottom of this article. Ellinger is based in Texas where he is the premier model agency testing photographer. And we all know how difficult that can be to raise to a top-level as Steve has landed. Here is an article he’s written for Breed on the inside intel on testing with major modeling agencies! Read on!
One of the most misunderstood segments of fashion photography is the agency test. Having done agency testing for countless agencies across the United States, I can actually see why so many have trouble grasping what exactly is involved, if it is paid, not paid, what is the purpose, and what is expected of the photographer, by the agency AND the model. In general, agency tests are simply updates that an agency needs for a model’s portfolio so that their book or portfolio is always current. I recently did a test for the Dragonfly Agency, one of the leading Los Angeles and Dallas agencies. Afterward, I took the opportunity to sit down with one of the agency directors, Loren Whitsett, a former model as well, and agency model Presley Collins-Flores to discuss agency tests.
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How does a photographer get selected to do agency testing work?
Whitsett: When a model is new and needs a portfolio, we want to reach out to photographers who obviously know what they are doing, have a lot of skill and have an extensive background in agency testing work. Being able to coach and direct a new model is important. Having a photographer with a history of testing, teamwork, and a lot of previous images is critical. Agencies are also typically open to receiving submittals from photographers of their work for review, but a strong understanding of fashion photography is very important.
What happens when an agency needs a test for a specific model?
Collins-Flores: I get a call from the agency asking if I am available on this day or days, whether the test is paid, or not paid. My agency will also tell me what to bring such as my usual model bag with shoes etc. specific wardrobe items etc. She will also go over with me who the photographer is, the team for MUAH, and styling. I will usually look at their work on their website, Instagram, etc. to get a feel for who I will be working with.
How long in advance is a test scheduled?
Collins-Flores: Obviously I like to have plenty of time to prepare, so usually the farther out the better. But I have had tests with one day notice, and had to make it work. If I have more time, I can make sure that my model bag as all the basics, and things are ready to go.
During a test, how does the agency instill the professionalism that agencies expect?
Whitsett: In very simple terms, if you don’t have a professional nature, you will not make it in this industry. If you show up to a shoot, or test, and don’t know anything about the designer you will be working for, you are clearly not as passionate as other models may be. If the model is on top of things, the designers, photographers, etc. see that, and then clients will request the model over and over again. Once that level of professionalism is achieved, then the model can become full-time. I am one of the few agents that actually attend our model tests. I am very hands-on.
How does the agency convey to the photographer the types of images you need?
Whitsett: At Dragonfly, we always produce a “mood-board” that illustrates the types of images we need for that test. It may be an activewear look, or whatever we may need to fill in her portfolio. We always have the model’s portfolio needs mapped out in advance, and book tests to get those images.
What do you like about being a model at an agency test?
Collins-Flores: I love being involved in the behind-the-scenes at tests, as well as being the model and being in front of the camera. Seeing the mood-boards, and how the stylists work to create those ideas is fascinating to me. I also love the creativity part of being a model and now that works at a test shoot.
If you were to give a bit of advice to a photographer who wants to do agency testing, what would that be?
Whitsett: Don’t be “hard-headed” and learn to take advice from the agency. There is a big difference in working with an agency as compared to shooting freelance and just doing whatever you want. When shooting for an agency, you need to be focused on fashion and editorial looks, and how the photographer’s work can be profitable for the agency, as opposed to just shooting cool pictures.
Collins-Flores: I would say that the photographer must be able to give good instructions, especially to a newer model, and to make them feel very comfortable. Little changes suggested by the photographer can make big differences. Simple changes to a movement can have a positive effect on the shoot.
A question that I am asked frequently by other photographers and models, is who, if anyone gets paid? I wish there was an easy black and white answer for that. It all depends on who needs or wants who. If an agency needs a test for a specific model(s) and feels as though my look and style is a good fit, then compensation to me is in order. If a photographer would like to test with a specific agency model and the agency is agreeable to that photographer’s work, then the model/agency should expect compensation. Let me also say that it is always the best policy to contact the agency about a certain model and shoot requests before you contact the model. Some agencies have very strict policies about who their models test with. Professionalism is always important.